Need help getting ugle Betty (Camaro) in good shape.

[camaro_guy]

All my bills are caught up and now it's time to do something with my pile of junk I call a Camaro. I need to do the fallowing... (and in this order)

1. Find out why there is no power. (headlights, radio, etc..) I made the foolish mistake of not unhooking the battery before replacing the alternator and I fried or shorted out something.
2. Stop the oil leaks that are coating the block in gunk.
3. Do whatever it takes to get that small block 400 running like it should.
4. Replace transmission
5. Posi!!!
6. Get new tires and wheels
7. fix window runners and handle for driver side door.

If anyone can help with these things or point me in the direction to get help please let me know. Feel free to call me if you'd like 715.299.1396

[xxxfrankensteinxxx]

Damn you got a lot more work to do, then last time or I just forgot lol

[camaro_guy]

Most of that has been needed for awhile. lol. D&D did a great job on it! 2 year old motor and it's been spitting oil 4 months after I got it back.. :(

[xxxfrankensteinxxx]

Most of that has been needed for awhile. lol. D&D did a great job on it! 2 year old motor and it's been spitting oil 4 months after I got it back.. :(

Damn that sucks, time to Degrease and start digging. Mmm 400 small block build sounds nice.

[stonedracer]

Most of that has been needed for awhile. lol. D&D did a great job on it! 2 year old motor and it's been spitting oil 4 months after I got it back.. :(
I wouldnt let d&d touch my car if they paid me.

[B-Mod]

I wouldnt let d&d touch my car if they paid me.


X2...........

[Draven8795]

Sounds like you need a multi-meter, a shop manual, and some tools.

[xxxfrankensteinxxx]

X2...........

Who's d&d and how bad are they?

[grocerygetter]

sell the motor and whatever you can and get a lsx 5.3 with a carb kit,,,,stupid easy and will run circles around the 400

[camaro_guy]

Like a Vortec?

[northsydryd]

sell the motor and whatever you can and get a lsx 5.3 with a carb kit,,,,stupid easy and will run circles around the 400

i was seirously gonna say almost the same damn thing.......i say hunt around junk yards for a hole front clip and keep it efi

[Formula95]

Get a 4.8 and put a turbo on it like they did in hotrod.

[camaro_guy]

Right now the 400 is gonna stay in. The Camaro is a project. I need to by a new DD first. Then I can really focus on turning her into a monster.

[abot316]

Everybody already knows my thoughts on a 5.3 or 4.8....with that said bring it by my shop if you need help working on it.

[camaro_guy]

Where's your shop?

[2fastforyou]

I can help you as much as possible i am back to getting my car going again.
ok first of all...i bet your oil leak is coming from your valve covers which is an easy fix i can help you look into that if you would like. I still think your car needs to be tuned yet for it to run better..carb ect.. Also could it be possible your cam is to big for the auto trans? Best thing to do...GET A 4 SPEED! easy switch...Next along with the posi YOU NEED GEARS your stock gears are tall as shit and not laying down the horse power like it should 3:73 gears will do wonders for you! i could blab all day on little things to help your car that im learning along the way doing mine..Also any info on your engine build what cam pistions heads you are running will be helpful to know..hit me up anytime and i will help you as much as i can.

[camaro2010]

cam is not to big for an auto trans,, you just need matching parts, probly needs a good th350 and a good stall converter to match the car, gears, and camshaft

by the time you get the 400 engine figured out you could have had a 5.3 in and running making more usable power than the 400 and no oil leaks to worry about

[TomKat]

It was a D and D installed motor. I'd be willing to be it's a 305 or maybe a 350.

[ZXTUNER]

283

[camaro_guy]

This scavenger hunt to find the fusible link between the starter and the ignition is turning out to be a big pain in the ass.

[Formula95]

Fusible link is by the starter if your car has one. My 79 doesn't have one.

[ZXTUNER]

its just a wire with a black plastic pice in the middle just bypass it

[Greg86z28]

I would get the numbers off the block and find out what it is before you do anything.

[abot316]

Plover and just take a quick look at the harmonic balancer. It should have a notch cut of it a good ways around it. Factory 400 cranks are the only gen 1's that are externally balanced. I dont work til 3pm on Friday or Saturday. If you got the time, bring it by so we can start running the casting numbers and do the rest of inspecting Do it again Dave's handy work.

[05Saab]

Fusible link = FUN lol. Even ask Sarge with his Taco Tueday adventure

[stonedracer]

Who's d&d and how bad are they?
http://danddmodsandrods.com/ out of stevens point. they effed up my buddys 97 eclipse gst and his srt4. Iv NEVER heard of someone actually gettting quality work from them. Honestly, I have no clue how their still in buisness.

[ZXTUNER]

NEW
StreetBlaze™ 103
StreetBlaze™ 103 is the highest octane unleaded street-legal fuel in the U.S. This 103 octane (R+M/2) fuel provides power and protection equal to some leaded racing fuels. Typically allows turbo engines to raise the boost from the stock 8-10 lbs. to 20-25 lbs. Although street legal in many states, StreetBlaze 103 is not legal in those states that restrict the use of MTBE. Customer should check local regulations prior to use.

Color: Red:
Oxygenated: Yes
Motor Octane: 99
R+M/2: 103
Specific Gravity: 743 at 60° F
Lead: None
Availability: 54 gallon sealed drums
Price: $11.01 per gallon
We ask that the customer supply their own container in order to receive this pricing for all quantities smaller than 54 gallons.


just up the boost no tuning needed says d&d that should tell u somthing

[Getsideways]

Where does it say no tuning needed???

[ZXTUNER]

allows turbo engines to raise the boost from the stock 8-10 lbs. to 20-25 lbs


does not say anything about tuning. they should say with proper tuning. the whay it is written implies just fill up crank the boost and go

[gofastturnleft01]

1. Find out why there is no power. (headlights, radio, etc..) I made the foolish mistake of not unhooking the battery before replacing the alternator and I fried or shorted out something.
You are on the right track with the fuse-able link.Then check to see if D&D reconnected the grounding strap. It is a flat braided ribbon of uninsulated cable about 18 inches long that should be connected between the engine and frame/body. On a Monte/cutlass it is usually on the back of the engine on one of the bell-housing bolts and the firewall next to the windshield wiper motor, don't know about a 81 Camaro.
2. Stop the oil leaks that are coating the block in gunk.
A. take the valve covers off. If whoever put them on covered both sides of the gasket with RVT, beat them with a stick. Go to the parts store by the thick cork valve cover gaskets for a small block chevy. Not the God Dam rubber coated plastic POS gaskets, tell them you want the old school cork gaskets. Clean up the sealing surfaces on the Valve covers with a small (3") wire wheel in a drill, then some brake cleaner and a rag. Use some high temp RVT silicon (get at store with gaskets) and run a 1/4 bead all the way around the sealing surface on the valve cover. Press the gasket down on the valve cover (be sure to line up the bolt holes) and wait a couple hours for the silicone to dry before replacing on the engine, you want the gasket to be glued to the valve cover so it dose not shit out into the head when you tighten it down. Do not put any silicone between the gasket and the head that is what the soft cork gasket is for.
B One of the valve covers should have a breather in it. When you have them off to replace the gaskets one should have and open hole in the center, that one gets the oil fill plug. The other one should have some sort of baffle built in under the hole in the center, that one gets the breather. If neither cover has the baffle you have two lefts and you need to return to the guy who put this together and beat him again with a bigger stick.

[gofastturnleft01]

3. Do whatever it takes to get that small block 400 running like it should.
A. Check the timing. Set the total mechanical advance to 36 degrees BTDC. To do this you will need and advancing timing light or a regular timing light, a piece of string and a tape measure.
I. If you have an adjustable timing light set it to 36 degrees advanced and skip to the next step. If you do not take the string rap it around the balancer try and keep it in the same spot all the way around the balancer, once the string doubles back on its self mark across both strands with a sharpy. remove the string and measure the distance between the marks that is the circumference of the balancer. Divide that by 10. 1/10 of 360 is 36. Mark the string with the 1/10 measurement. Use the string to mark the balancer at 1/10 of the circumference on both sides of the TDC mark. (its late I can't remember what side it needs to be so do both)
II. Disconnect the vacuum advance. Plug the vacuum line you just unhooked from the distributor. Connect your timing light and start the engine. It propably won't idle for shit with the vacuum advance unhooked. while watching the timing mark rev the engine up until the mark stops advancing. At idle it won't be anywhere near the tab, but you should have full mechanical advance by 2500 to 3000 rpm. set the timing to 0 at TDC with the new mark or your light set to 36 BTDC while at the higher RPM.
III. turn off engine and reconnect the vacuum advance.
B. Your carburetor is to big. I can almost guarantee that it is to big. Your cam is probably to big as well. Bigger is not always better. Find out what cam you have (lift and duration) Go to the Barry Grant web site and figure out which 500 CFM demon 2 barrel carb you need. I have seen 400 SBCs running 6000 rpm and 400+ hp with the 500 CFM race demon on them. A good Holley 4412 will work as well. You do not need a 850 CFM 4 barrel. If you have a 850 Holley on the motor and the same guy that messed up you valve covers sold it to you, forget the stick, use a gun.
If a new carb is not in the budget. Get a vacuum gauge while at the parts store picking up the gaskets and RVT. Try and set your idle to as close to 600-800 rpm as you can get without the car dying. This will take a lot of trial and error but adjust the idle circuit jets on the front of the carb until you get the max vacuum reading. You might have to turn the idle down as you adjust the jets to keep the rpms down. If adjusted correctly the butterfly should be fully or almost fully closed at idle.

When you have the valve covers off, check the rockers and push rods. When the valve is fully closed (all the way up) there should be enough slack to be able to spin the push rod but not be able to wiggle it up and down. (assuming hydrolic lifters) Check for any discoloration on the rocker arms (localized over heating) on the push rod cup, the pivot ball or the valve stem interface.

[camaro_guy]

Wow, Thanks for all the info.

[camaro_guy]

Plover and just take a quick look at the harmonic balancer. It should have a notch cut of it a good ways around it. Factory 400 cranks are the only gen 1's that are externally balanced. I dont work til 3pm on Friday or Saturday. If you got the time, bring it by so we can start running the casting numbers and do the rest of inspecting Do it again Dave's handy work.

I think I miss understood. By Plover I thought you meant Plover Auto Body. and you worked or would be there by 3. Weird ha.