What would something like this cost?

[Deadly_Evolution]

Just looking for a basic idea of what something like this might cost me. (just looking for the two metal brake caliper ducts) Would like a quote for aluminum, stainless and for just basic sheet metal. Unless you have other ideas of course.

Not sure if I really want to go this route just yet but if you don't mind giving me a ball park price I'd be curious to see it.

http://mievo.net/talk/showthread.php?t=2195

[devlish]

cool idea. great function.
but he did a poor job of making it look decent

[Dizmm]

i got nearly those same ducts as well as GSW.

[VPT]

I should be able to put those (the aluminum part) together for about $40-50 a side.


Deadly I can give you a better deal on them for helping me out with the tags.

[devlish]

i want a better deal on mine too!!! there are enough of us with the same brakes. maybe we can all get them!!!

[Dizmm]

i want a better deal on mine too!!! there are enough of us with the same brakes. maybe we can all get them!!!

this wont work on an STi. plus STi's brakes are located behing the wheel hub giving it more airflow for cooling.

[devlish]

SSHHHhhhh!!! i want one!!

[JamesHell]

Its not important to get the duct into the caliper like he did. It is much more important to get clean air into the center of the disc so it can pull it through like a fan. Though Im not familiar with the way the brakes are laid out, so that might be the only way to do it.

Also the duct inlets are pushed out past the front. This actually puts the inlet in a low pressure area and limits the amount of air that is forced into the ducts. If you can simply make sure the inlets are set back from the leading edge of whatever opening you decide to use it will greatly increase the pressure. You have to think kind of opposite. You want the inlets in a low air speed area. If the air speed is to high it will find another place to be. Where if you find a low speed area it will want to take that way to get out of the high pressure area.

Like usual I am thinking to much, but some food for thought.
Be sure to post pics when your done.

[VPT]

What if the ducts ran to a small radiator fan that would blow air all the time no matter what the speed?

[Dizmm]

What if the ducts ran to a small radiator fan that would blow air all the time no matter what the speed?

they do make those. they look like a computer case fan.

[TomKat]

Stock. Stock. Stock.

I use the factory brake cooler flap thingies found on the MR edition EVOs. I think they cost about $60.00.

[JamesHell]

What if the ducts ran to a small radiator fan that would blow air all the time no matter what the speed?

I have talked to one guy that had good results with them. He did road coarse.

But I would listen to Tom. Something must make him good??? Cant be the skills :cool:

[VPT]

^ TK isn't good, he just sets up courses to his benefit.

[VPT]

they do make those. they look like a computer case fan.

Puter fans I don't think would be enough. I am thinking a 10" radiator fan with a shroud to funnel all the air down to 2 vent tubes that run to the brake ducts.

[EVILUTION]

This is what the big boys on EVOM recommend:
http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Bathroom-Ventilation/Remote-Fans-for-Bath/SP-TD-Series-Inline-Fans

[EVILUTION]

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=59,7,363_73&action=product

[VPT]

This is what the big boys on EVOM recommend:
http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Bathroom-Ventilation/Remote-Fans-for-Bath/SP-TD-Series-Inline-Fans



The 5" only flows 198CFM

This 10" flows 1500+ cfm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Radiator-Cooling-Fan-10-Thin-Slim-1550-CFM-Universal_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414a8903b2QQi temZ280423367602QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ 5fAccessories

[Deadly_Evolution]

That is insane! I just want a little extra protection against fade for the 20 min. sessions in higher temps lapping days.

I am bidding on a set of the OEM style flappers on ebay also as I don't really like all that extra crap with the ducts, it always seems to cause issues.

TK the flappers you have are actually more like $140 so you got a good deal on them.


James Hell, thank you for that bit of info very informative.

[SgtRauksauff]

Extra protection against fade.:

1) remove front bumper.
2) bolt on a piece of square tubing.
3) zip-tie on some 3" dryer vent pointed where you need it.
4) have no more brake fade at high-speed events.

it works.

looks ugly as sin, but works....

http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/yy160/CWSCC/Shawano%209-13-09/DSC_9425e.jpg

(I'd probably have left the bumper on, except the tires are wide enough, and the caster is forward enough, that the tires grab the bumper when turning. for now.)

--sarge

[devlish]

on a car that light, did you ever really get brake fade to begin with?? it weighs half of the EVO/STi, and is probably not quite as fast coming into a turn after a long straight either.

[Deadly_Evolution]

I'd sell my car and buy something else before ever doing something like that

[Dizmm]

XP12 pads. Never hit pad fade with them. I did boil some fluid at BHF but not until I came off track. I think 2 laps of cool down and I would not have boiled my fluid.

Just dont go balls out for the entire 20 minutes. You can also reduce brake fade by doing hard and quick braking. Dont ease into the brakes.

[SgtRauksauff]

^^^ I know all this. I happened to be running Hawk HP-plus at the time, and hadn't got any carbotechs yet. Only had major pad fade at BHF, at turns 7 and 1. mostly at turn 7, as I was going a lot faster than coming into turn 1. I installed the ducts the night before the Milwaukee Mile HPDE. Higher speeds for sure (about 115 at the end of the front straight before braking, but also slightly less braking than at BHF (87mph at the bridge as measured by TK). No fade to speak of. fluid started getting warm, though, but not too bad.

Sure the car's light (I think 2370 with me in it, if I remember correctly), but I can fit 13" wheels over the brakes with no problem. So, not a lot of thermal mass to dissipate the heat. This was also with RT-615's, not r-comps, so I couldn't go as deep or abrupt as with the R-comps.

--sarge

[Deadly_Evolution]

XP12 pads. Never hit pad fade with them. I did boil some fluid at BHF but not until I came off track. I think 2 laps of cool down and I would not have boiled my fluid.

Just dont go balls out for the entire 20 minutes. You can also reduce brake fade by doing hard and quick braking. Dont ease into the brakes.

Actually you 're right. I was in a hurry and did not use the proper terms at all. I've never had brake fade, ever with the EVO, I did boil the fluid one time at BHF's about 17 or 18 minutes into a session. The fluid was however about 8 months old and sat all winter long. This is also why there may not be a need to do anything extreme.

On another note though.. my new car will be putting down a lot more power, and probably be able to achieve higher speeds upon entering the braking zone. Which is why the thought of some from of brake cooling has been coming to mind.