View Full Version : Winter Mods Thread
TomKat
04-04-2008, 08:05 AM
Extreme posted a picture of a Ferrari in this thread by mistake. Then he moved it.
{Cough cough} Aftermarket crap. Should have put in a stock clutch. :x
Did you do a good job of cleaning off the flywheel and pressure plate?
Sometimes strong clutches need to be broken in.
Years ago I had a buddy with a Firebird put in some crap aftermarket clutch. For the first 100 miles in was just terrible. You either had to do a burnout when taking off or else the car would shake so bad I thought it was going to fall apart.
Those stock GTI clutch's are shit once you start to do any kind of modding. I can tell you first hand, as I fried on that was less then a month old doing nothing but trying to slip the clutch durning a launch at the drag strip. This was on a 212 whp 250 wtq GTI that was chipped and few other mods. I've seen the same thing with numerous other GTI stock clutches as soon as more power was added. Since Tony is getting chipped soon stock clutch would not have been wise.
You'll be fine.... minor low rpm slipping does next to nothing to a clutch.
Just look at all the female driven 5 speeds on the road!
Well after contacting the manufacturer, Its impossible to install the clutch disk backwards, and the only way i can tell if i got sent the wrong pressure plate is by taking everything apart and giving them the serial numbers. I talked to the mechanic and he wiped the flywheel and pressure plate of any grease and residue. So after going back and talking to the manufacturer its possible that something got on the clutch disk and it just needs to be seated in properly. I've got 190 miles on it now and it seems to be not slipping as much. And i decided to not bleed the clutch, which i really didn't want to do in the first place cuz its PITA. As far as the vibration i'm getting, after doin research it is from the poly-urethane dog-bone mount that connects the tranny to the chassis. Only time will tell on this one :roll:
Dizmm, (Old Account)
04-04-2008, 03:20 PM
after any clutch job, you should re-bleed and adjust the hydraulic system.
devlish
04-04-2008, 03:41 PM
after any clutch job, you should re-bleed and adjust the hydraulic system. clutch job what??
Dizmm, (Old Account)
04-04-2008, 04:04 PM
after any clutch job, you should re-bleed and adjust the hydraulic system. clutch job what??
yeah you know what i mean!!!
devlish
04-04-2008, 09:40 PM
so does Evil and Extreme!!!!
I would bleed the clutch but im not having any engaging/disengaging problems. Ok lets say for some ungodly reason that the clutch and pressure plate were not aligned properly would this cause my clutch to be slipping?
Just trying to think of every possible scenario :?
TomKat
04-05-2008, 06:49 PM
I know lots of people with modified VW's and the stock clutch holds up just fine.
Driving technique. You must respect the power and the clutch.
I know lots of people with modified VW's and the stock clutch holds up just fine.
Driving technique. You must respect the power and the clutch.
I said GTI clutches not VW, not all VW's have the same clutch you know :wink: Some cars just have weak points. We're talking about a power increase of35%-50% in some cases, after a chip. Proper "driving technique" or not, the OEM unit was never designed to hold that extra tq and hp.
I've driven Tony's car, there is def something not right. If you give it any gas what so ever the rpm's climb and it just slips. I mean if you give it even like 1/8th throttle it slips. I think it's possibly an incorrect TOB, it just does not have bite to it. The clutch does not even begin to engage until the pedal is all the way out now. Acting like the clutch diaphram is always halfway pushed in, even when the clutch pedal is all the way up or out.
fordssuck
04-07-2008, 09:46 AM
Spring Mods- fix boost leaks
Possible spring mods-
EVO 9 turbo
HKS 272
METH
Fuel pump
Just talked to ecs tuning and after describing exactly how different my clutch pedal feel is, he said that he had the same exact thing happen to him. Keep in mind the new clutch kit is suppose to have stock pedal feel. My clutch pedal I dont start moving until the pedal is all the way out as S3SRT mentioned. So with that said a new slave cylinder is on the way!!!!
If it clutch slips bad right away it will always be a slipper and if it does start to hold it will start to slip soon. Maybe the pressure plate is just weak, are any of the forks bent on the pressure plate?
I just dont see it being a slave.. Slave problems will give you grindng and engagement issues. A bad slave will not push the rod far enough to engage/disengage the pressure plate on the clutch. IMO slave seems like it's going to be a waste of money. If the slave was bad it would of done this kind of thing with the stock clutch also. Think about it.. you had a perfectly normal clutch pedal and grip, put in new clutch and it slips. Seems to me like it's the clutch or TOB is to long.
EVILUTION
04-07-2008, 06:40 PM
Have you bled the fucking thing?
Have you bled the fucking thing?
No, I don't think he has any idea how to??
Dizmm, (Old Account)
04-08-2008, 08:15 AM
Ask someone that is german. err, wait, I am mostly german....DAMMIT
Nice way to put your foot in your mouth there.. Or perhaps it was Das BOOT!!!
http://www.bierboothaus.com/products/cw3/assets/product_expanded/2%20Liter%20Hofbrauhaus%20HB%20Beer%20Boot%20-%20Das%20Boot%20LOGO%20xl.jpg
austinj06
04-08-2008, 01:55 PM
Have you bled the fucking thing? lol
i know how to bleed my own clutch, i'm just waiting for the slave cylinder to get here.
EVILUTION
04-08-2008, 02:51 PM
You should try the bleed before the slave. Odds are air entered the system through the slave but the slave is still good. It simply needs a bleed.
You should try the bleed before the slave. Odds are air entered the system through the slave but the slave is still good. It simply needs a bleed.
I understand where you are coming from. Its just that its a common thing for my car for the slave to go out and seeing as how i have like 134k on the chassis i figured its just best that i replace the fucker anyways....
devlish
04-08-2008, 06:40 PM
You should try the bleed before the slave. Odds are air entered the system through the slave but the slave is still good. It simply needs a bleed.
I understand where you are coming from. Its just that its a common thing for my car for the slave to go out and seeing as how i have like 134k on the chassis i figured its just best that i replace the fucker anyways.... don't fix it unless it's broken. :roll:
You should try the bleed before the slave. Odds are air entered the system through the slave but the slave is still good. It simply needs a bleed.
I understand where you are coming from. Its just that its a common thing for my car for the slave to go out and seeing as how i have like 134k on the chassis i figured its just best that i replace the fucker anyways.... don't fix it unless it's broken. :roll:
Do as I say not as I do.
i know how to bleed my own clutch, i'm just waiting for the slave cylinder to get here.
Do please tell me how one "bleeds a clutch". I personally only know how to bleed a slave cylinder/master cylinder. Also if you know how to do it. why didn't you? Like I said and I say it again. The slave did not just magically go bad. It would have shown symptoms on the old clutch also. Unless your slave is very cheap to replace, I would of bleed it first personally.
devlish
04-08-2008, 09:34 PM
i know how to bleed my own clutch, i'm just waiting for the slave cylinder to get here.
Do please tell me how one "bleeds a clutch". I personally only know how to bleed a slave cylinder/master cylinder. Also if you know how to do it. why didn't you? Like I said and I say it again. The slave did not just magically go bad. It would have shown symptoms on the old clutch also. Unless your slave is very cheap to replace, I would of bleed it first personally.agreed
Posihead
04-09-2008, 05:46 AM
Instead of buying a new slave, I would have whipped the old one and told him to get back to work! But, oh well, to each his own... :wink:
Posihead
04-09-2008, 05:50 AM
On second thought, if you made your old slave bleed too much, he might get week and need replacing before he dies... :wink:
slave cylinder was bled tonight and still slips......there was a whole shit ton of air in the system.....getting new slave cylinder :roll:
devlish
04-10-2008, 02:43 PM
slave cylinder was bled tonight and still slips......there was a whole shit ton of air in the system.....getting new slave cylinder :roll: maybe there is still a whole shit ton of air??? good luck with the new one.
Stash
04-10-2008, 04:46 PM
Why would bleeding the slave cylinder help with a slipping clutch? :? If there is air in the system it would not fully extend the slave cause the clutch to not disengage. I would think a more resonable explaination would be if there is an adjustment on the clutch master that affects pedal position, that could be adjusted to the point where it will not allow the slave to fully return to the contracted state. That would keep the clutch from fully engaging. Just an idea, if your slave needed to be bleed I would expect you to complain of dis-engagement issues, not slipping.
Why would bleeding the slave cylinder help with a slipping clutch? :? If there is air in the system it would not fully extend the slave cause the clutch to not disengage. I would think a more resonable explaination would be if there is an adjustment on the clutch master that affects pedal position, that could be adjusted to the point where it will not allow the slave to fully return to the contracted state. That would keep the clutch from fully engaging. Just an idea, if your slave needed to be bleed I would expect you to complain of dis-engagement issues, not slipping.
AMEN, thank you, this is exactly what I've been saying from the get go, if it's not that. It's a defective clutch.
Posihead
04-11-2008, 03:25 AM
Why would bleeding the slave cylinder help with a slipping clutch? :? If there is air in the system it would not fully extend the slave cause the clutch to not disengage. I would think a more resonable explaination would be if there is an adjustment on the clutch master that affects pedal position, that could be adjusted to the point where it will not allow the slave to fully return to the contracted state. That would keep the clutch from fully engaging. Just an idea, if your slave needed to be bleed I would expect you to complain of dis-engagement issues, not slipping.
AMEN, thank you, this is exactly what I've been saying from the get go, if it's not that. It's a defective clutch.
Are me, Stash, and S3SRT the only damn people on here that know how a slave cylinder works, WTF, this saddens me... :?
http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/1162/dsc06094ii5.jpg
Posihead
04-14-2008, 05:27 AM
Rice?
TSi_II
04-14-2008, 06:33 AM
Race it and find out... :lol:
TomKat
04-14-2008, 12:16 PM
Race VPT. Ha ha ha ah ha ha ha. :lol: Like he'll ever race. :lol:
Race VPT. Ha ha ha ah ha ha ha. :lol: Like he'll ever race. :lol:
I race every year!
LSEGHATCH
04-14-2008, 10:20 PM
BIG_TNZ: IF your slave cylinder was bad, check at the firewall both in the bay and inside the car for fluid leaking. As others said I don't think air in the system would cause your clutch to slip or the master cylinder going for that matter. I could see how a bad MC would cause air to constantly get into the system if the seal that the piston slides in and out of was shot.
On a second note, did you take the flywheel in and have it resurfaced or did you just clean it and go? New clutches need a roughed or unsmooth surface to grip and break in, if you just sprayed it off your flywheel is more than likely "glazed" and too slippery for your new disc to grab hold of. Glazing can also happen even if you resurface and don't follow proper break in procedures.
Just my .02
TSi_II
04-15-2008, 06:00 AM
Yeah, I think that's why my CenterForce shitted out on me right away. I didn't have it resurfaced at all and I'm not so sure I broke it in right. I drove it really slow for 500 miles(ish) and then just slowly started driving normally.
Thats some good info LSEGHATCH, as I've always been unsure how to tell if the master is bad or not. I would have to say in BigTNZ's case his master is bad. He said there was a lot of air in the system after bleeding it( which did not fix his problems) Then days later he started having engagement problems. If it were myself I would replace both and call it a day on that end.
Now for the clutch itself, the flywheel was brand new, said to have been cleaned prior to installation by the installer. It slipped on the initial test drive by the installer, yet he still released the car to the owner (BIGTNZ) which I think is a crock of shit. I would have told that installer to drive my car back into the install bay and fix that shit. I would also be chewing out the clutch dealers or distrubutors ass. No way in hell would I be paying for any new product for a clutch that slipped on the spin around the block after install. I've had my share of shit clutches, both of which I did not pay a penny to upgrade or get replaced and my money back.
Thats some good info LSEGHATCH, as I've always been unsure how to tell if the master is bad or not. I would have to say in BigTNZ's case his master is bad. He said there was a lot of air in the system after bleeding it( which did not fix his problems) Then days later he started having engagement problems. If it were myself I would replace both and call it a day on that end.
Now for the clutch itself, the flywheel was brand new, said to have been cleaned prior to installation by the installer. It slipped on the initial test drive by the installer, yet he still released the car to the owner (BIGTNZ) which I think is a crock of shit. I would have told that installer to drive my car back into the install bay and fix that shit. I would also be chewing out the clutch dealers or distrubutors ass. No way in hell would I be paying for any new product for a clutch that slipped on the spin around the block after install. I've had my share of shit clutches, both of which I did not pay a penny to upgrade or get replaced and my money back.
Ok so if i replace the master and the slave and it fixes my problems, would it be wise to replace the whole clutch kit itself. Or do you think that there was minimal damage done with all the slipping i'v been having?
devlish
04-15-2008, 03:18 PM
Ok so if i replace the master and the slave and it fixes my problems, would it be wise to replace the whole clutch kit itself. Or do you think that there was minimal damage done with all the slipping i'v been having? if it still slips, then replace the whole clutch. if fixing the master/slaves fix the problem... then no need to replace the rest of it.
i agree with SRT4S3 though, i would have told the installer to fix it if it slipped on the test drive, or even within the first week. was it a dealer/shop or a friend though?
Ok so if i replace the master and the slave and it fixes my problems, would it be wise to replace the whole clutch kit itself. Or do you think that there was minimal damage done with all the slipping i'v been having? if it still slips, then replace the whole clutch. if fixing the master/slaves fix the problem... then no need to replace the rest of it.
i agree with SRT4S3 though, i would have told the installer to fix it if it slipped on the test drive, or even within the first week. was it a dealer/shop or a friend though?
It was a dealer/shop, the reason why i took the car in the first place is because we thought that something had gotten on the clutch disk itself and it just needed to be worn off. But obviously that wasn't the case.
Stash
04-15-2008, 03:57 PM
if it still slips, then replace the whole clutch. if fixing the master/slaves fix the problem... then no need to replace the rest of it.
I can guarantee you replacing the master or slave is not going to fix the slipping issue. Sounds like you need a new clutch.
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